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Louise's avatar

I first came across Parmesan shakers when I went to university in the UK, and they always smelled like vomit to me - my family in London always brings cheddar from the uk and goes home with their suitcases full of parmigiano.

Loved learning about the different types - my main character flaw (I’m told) is that I don’t like cheese although I love cheesy things, so I’m mainly a consumer of Parmesan on pasta, or maybe with bresaola and rughetta, but I love how kids here are given it as a snack.

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

Louise! This is a family-friendly newsletter! Haha.

That’s a very evocative description and I know exactly what you mean.

I know someone else who agrees with you about the role of cheese. But I’m the opposite: I love it in food but a bite of 36-month P-R with a drop of aged balsamic on it is hard to beat.

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Louise's avatar

I do feel very let down by myself for not appreciating cheese more, because I know I would be so into it if I did!.I love looking at cheeseboards, and I obviously love parmigiano on pasta, and a nice cheesy pizza (even gorgonzola!), and even a bit of goats cheese with something caramelised, but I just can't love a slice or a chunk of it, tragically!

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Lolly Martyn's avatar

Me too, Louise! I write a whole piece on parmigiano as a superfood snack of Italian children. 🥰 Do you eat it as a snack sometimes too?

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

Lolly, will you post the link to your superfood post here?

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Lolly Martyn's avatar

That is super nice of you to ask, Eric 😍 Grazie! here you go! https://open.substack.com/pub/weeknightpasta/p/the-ultimate-italian-kids-energy-065?r=2f1vex&utm_medium=ios

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Louise's avatar

Personally I don't, but I give it to my grandaughter as a snack!

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Lolly Martyn's avatar

You are a super nonna 🥰

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Louise's avatar

I KNOW, right? 😂

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Lolly Martyn's avatar

😆🥰🥰🥰

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Annie B. Shapero's avatar

Oh that green canister! We had no idea what we were missing.

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Antonio (Pipo)'s avatar

Oh, that container brings back memories!!

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EESRoma's avatar

Same for me! I loved that “Parmesan” - so glad I now enjoy the real thing!

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

If I don’t chicken out, my plan is to try some of the Kraft stuff while in the U.S.

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

I’m en route to the U. S. now — I’m writing after boarding DL215. I’m going to work up the courage to try a Kraft Parmesan while there.

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Mary  Jane  Cryan's avatar

the awful mac and cheese they love in usa- and Kraft slices.... so glad I live here although the price of parmigiano has increased recently

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Annie B. Shapero's avatar

If you're on Delta, you might not even have to wait! I'm sure they're serving a some red sauce pasta delight onboard! Do it, Eric. Ask.

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

I pre-ordered chicken pesto. I can’t say I’m a fan of airplane pasta (though I suppose a heaping portion of Parmigiano would improve it)

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Annie B. Shapero's avatar

Fancy. My money's on a solid dusting of parm.

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Chiara Santoro's avatar

Parmigiano Reggiano + drops of Aceto Balsamico from Modena. A triumph of umami taste. Love the new format!

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

Thanks!

That combination almost made it into the essay and it’s already come up in one of the other comments. But it’s one of the greats — Emilia Romagna reduced to a single bite.

Parmigiano Reggiano is complex and adaptable, and so is Aceto Balsamico: in salads, on carpaccio, cooked meats, on a ripe strawberry or slice of peach, even on gelato! It’s no wonder they’re so good together.

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Anna Maria's avatar

It's definately a lighter read in the notebook form. But still v. interesting!!

My mom does the same thing with the cheese cloth and the plastic bag and she used to get mad when we wouldn't put it back!

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

Is your mamma from Emilia-Romagna? I learned that storage trick from a mamma from Modena.

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Anna Maria's avatar

No, she’s not. But she studied in Bologna … maybe that’s where she picked it up.

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Stephan Giannini's avatar

I feel so validated. I always felt a little guilty because sometimes I’ll take the Parmesan cheese out of my refrigerator and make little slices as snacks. I was always taught that it’s only reserved to be grated over pasta or perhaps stews or salads. Of course it’s a North American bland copy, but better than naught!

I hadn’t thought of the balsamic pairing, thank you!

I was raised on the Green can as well, alas!

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

Those green cans were everywhere!

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Michael LaPointe's avatar

I really need to go there. Thanks for sharing!

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Kati Schardl's avatar

I am a cheese fiend and now I am craving some real Parmigiano-Reggiano! I too grew up with the green shaker and would always shake shake shake it onto my mom's spaghetti (a favorite supper in our household).

Love the Notebook format - a savory bite of wordplay. Well done, you!

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

I’m glad the new format works!

I think you’ll have a some good Parmigiano-Reggiano in your hands before you know it.

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Lucrezia OBrien's avatar

Eric, how could you eat that from that green container? I am 85 years old, and I grew up in an Italian restaurant. The family noted that it was poisonous. LOL

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

Don’t be too harsh: I was a kid and didn’t know any better!

But when I tried the real stiff after that Kraft stuff (did you know if has wood pulp in it?) I felt like I was in the scene from The Wizard of Oz when everything turned to color!

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Sarah Bringhurst Familia's avatar

I love the new format, and also the Parmigiano, of course. Can you talk about the little crunchy bits? What are they? Do they have a name? Why are they kind of the most addictive part?

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

Ciao Sarah! Those crunchy bits are from the milk proteins that crystallize over time. The 60-month version I tried seemed to be completely crystallized! But not everyone likes it. My mother, for example, sees it as a flaw. I’m on my way to visit her in the U.S. now and am bringing her half a kilo of 18-month old cheese. I think that’s the oldest one with almost no crunch.

Thanks for the vote of confidence on the new format! I’m hoping it’ll lighten the writing and reading load. The long-form essays are a lot of work!

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Sarah Bringhurst Familia's avatar

I've got to get my hands on some of that 60-month version. It sounds divine!

There's a traditional Dutch cheese called "Old Amsterdam," and it's also liberally sprinkled with those crunchies. Very different sort of pairings here: strong mustard and tiny cocktail pickles (and maybe some dark Belgian beer).

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

I’ve heard that some cheesemakers can age it 72 months or more. I can’t even imagine that!

I don’t know Old Amsterdam cheese. But I just wrote a note to myself to look for it next time I’m in The Netherlands.

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Antonia Castellani's avatar

About the 60 months: I am not too fond of the really old, pungently strong cheese. I have never had Parmigiano 60 months, I wonder if it is similar to Castelmagno cheese from Piemonte? Almost impossible to pair it with wine, if not one of those very structured red ones, but a very old cheese may kill any wine…

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Lolly Martyn's avatar

Ciao Antonia! We’re a big Castemagno-eating family with parenti in Piemonti. We tried the 60mesi in Emilia Romagna and it was definitely not as strong or pungent as that. It just has more crystallization, more nuttiness, more umami - and not ever as creamy and “stinky” as castalmagno. (Now I’m hungry) ;-)

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

I’m not positive I’ve never had Castemagno, but now I really want to try it!

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Lolly Martyn's avatar

It’s really strong! Not everyone likes it but my son has always eaten it - even from when he was little!

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Antonia Castellani's avatar

I believe you: nothing is like Castelmagno! I will try the 60 months Parmigiano (if I manage to get my hands on some).

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Lolly Martyn's avatar

Exactly! It is so unique!! Where are you that you might not find it?

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

I'm jealous of this exchange: I just arrived in the U.S. for two weeks and will have to content myself with the Parmegiano-Reggiano I brought with me and all the American cheeses that brag about being dairy free!

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

It was very interesting to try it. I am basing my opinion on one 20g sliver I had, but it was too much to try regularly. It was a kind of sensory overload. Even the 48 is a lot to process more than occasionally, sort of like a very old wine. But the old ones help put the “middle aged” ones into context.

That said, if I could have 24- and 36-month cheeses for the rest of my life I’d be satisfied with that.

I don’t think I know Castelmagno. Should I look for it?

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Antonia Castellani's avatar

Always good to try, but I suggest to have it in a risotto, not on its own. Anyway, if you like strong blue cheese, I would rather recommend marcetto cheese from Abruzzo. Let's organise a trip to Pescara and I will guide you!

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

A cheese trip in Abruzzo sounds amazing!

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Nicky Matisse's avatar

I don't know if it's #1 to me (among Italian cheeses). I think Mozzerella. But P-R is in the top 3. Nicely written as usual.

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

Mozzarella in some form — buffala, buratta, stracciatella — is probably second for me.

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Glenda Mitchell's avatar

I could almost smell & taste the cheese as I read your article.

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Eric J Lyman's avatar

That’s the best compliment I could imagine. Thank you!

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Glenda Mitchell's avatar

Next time, please send me cheese.....

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Brian's avatar

Love this article!

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Stephen Scott's avatar

And here I thought I was the only person to shake some of the Kraft Parmigiana in my hand and enjoy it. I used it on all kinds of foods as well. Still keep a can on hand to shake on take-out pizza. Thank you for sharing that bit of your youth as well!

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