Excellent post, Eric! I can confirm that I have had nothing but uuuhhs and aahhs when I have travelled there with my dog. Roma is great with lots of fountains to drink from and lovely people who stop to chat... with my dog. LoL
Thank you! Mocha is with you on the fountains. She drinks from them regularly and on really hot days she just stands under them and lets the cold water wash over her back! She doesn’t like swimming but she’s a big supporter of the “nasone” fountains.
They really got along wonderfully when my mom came to Rome ... Mocha was so sad she was leaving that Mocha ran after the taxi taking my mom to the airport!
I love this. I work in dog rescue in Lazio. Although I need to point out that while Italy does have some of the best laws for our domestic friends, the culture has not caught up with the laws and there are still about 750,000 dogs living in what we call canile lagher. People don't sterilise their animals and they still buy designer dogs.
I don't take my dogs to my bar, because I have five, but I am obsessed with Martino the Jack Russell. They have snacks just for him behind the bar. He is a local celebrity. When my husband comes home I always ask him if he saw Martino. I couldn't even tell you the name of his dad or what he looks like. Martino is legend!!
I thought about discussing kennel reform and sterilization, but I couldn't think of a way to discuss the topic quickly and I didn't want the post to be dominated by that.
I know most of the dogs in my neighborhood and I'm aware of only a couple that came from breeders. At least in San Paolo/Garbatella it seems like having a "trovatello" is admired.
I think it depends on the neighborhood. I have noticed more adopted dogs around than even ten years ago which gives me hope. If you know anyone looking for a dog anywhere in central Italy let me know. I have one talent and that is placing the right dogs with the right family personality wise. My volunteer job is interviewing families before adoption. I'm currently looking to place an adorable Westie. I want him but my dog Chardonnay is 17 and deserves peace with no terrier disruptions.
Wow, that's a big dog -- almost 4 times larger than Mocha!
A friend of mine has a Great Dane -- I don't know if it weighs as much as your dog (he probably is), but it seems like he's as tall as a horse. And Romans can't get enough of him.
Yeah, Danes are the true showstoppers! I wrote this piece about traveling with my big girl (and cat) in case any of your readers are scrolling the comments and need some info: https://substack.com/@lisaellzey/note/p-170454780
This was one of the first topics I wrote about when I launched my Substack. Seeing how affectionate Romans are toward dogs kind of makes sense when you realize that they have been symbols of fidelity since antiquity. I never thought about dogs and the papacy though. Very interesting!
Thanks, Eric. We still have one dog, Wendy, who is actually Pepita's mother. Most of the puppies from that litter were adopted by other families, but Pepita was our sweet girl til the end.
Great read! I’ve often thought about indexing my stories from the true crime beat according to the names of the accuseds’ hounds: Snatch & Medellìn my favourites so far...
That would be a fun thing to write about, assuming you could get true, heartfelt anecdotes about the dogs from their owners. I could imagine the eyes watering up on some hardened criminal as he reflects on not seeing his faithful friend while in prison.
Do you really think Italy isn't child-friendly? I always thought it was -- maybe not in terms of infrastructure, but people seem to fawn over children.
You went gently on Pope Benedict. As a journalist who covered his papacy, I can say that he was better known — in terms of canine nicknames — as “God’s Rottweiler,” a reference to his fierce crackdowns on dissent to safeguard doctrinal orthodoxy in the Catholic Church. Near Villa Pamphili in Rome, a neighborhood with many, many dog-owners, stores thoughtfully put hooks outside their premises where dogs can be safely tied up while patrons shop. And many a shop places a doggie water bowl outside. A welcome mark of civility.
I'm not particularly religious but I much preferred JP2 and Francis to Benedict on a personal level. And I know he was the Church's enforcer both as pontiff and especially as prefect of the Congregation for the Doctrine of the Faith.
The two difficult areas I seriously considered including involved Benedict and Italy's spotty history with dog kennels. But I thought neither could be addressed in passing (the way Francis' dogs/cats/children comment could) and I didn't want to let the post be dominated by those things, so in the end I left them out. But your point is well taken.
On a more enjoyable topic, I have noticed how the area around Villa Pamphili is especially dog friendly, even by Roman standards! When Mocha was younger we used to go running there and wherever we went afterwards for coffee or a bite to eat, it was full of dogs and they were always the center of attention. I'm sure you know that cafe, ViVi, which is actually inside Villa Pamphili. Sometimes it seems like that place is a dog paradise where people are allowed to sometimes come along.
Yes, she runs through the streets! If you click on the link where that's mentioned you can see her do it. She only does it on streets she knows, where there's no traffic. It's been a while since I have had her run in an unfamiliar area, but back when I did it I'd usually walk the area with her first and then do it slowly on the motorino, then, once she knew it, more quickly.
I've always regretting not being able to bring Mocha to the U.S. I'm sure she would love to meet you. Unfortunately, the weight limit for a dog in the cabin is 10 kg and Mocha weighs 13 kg, and I don't want to have her make the trip in the baggage hold.
Moved to Abruzzo from the US a few months back with our 4 year old Australian Shepherd. Needless to say, he’s so happy here, we get coffee every morning and he can go in almost every shop, including the macelleria where he gets tons of samples of fegato etc. More people in town know his name than mine, but that’s ok. Having a dog here as an ex-pat opens so many doors to conversation and connection.
I agree on a good dog acting as a door opener. In addition to the adoration dogs get, they're also proof that you're a resident. I imagine it's a little different in Abruzzo, but here in Rome all the tricksters looking for "donations" in return for small trinkets or bracelets just look past me when I'm with Mocha. They assume I'm Roman and so it would be better to focus in on the tourist behind me.
Yes I have, they’re incredible, but never ever bring your domestic dog near them especially if they’re working. Abruzzese sheepdogs can take down wolves, they’re the top of the pyramid around here, but watching them work with human shepherds (sometimes we go to the Campo Imperatore to hike and watch) is really amazing.
Sounds like my Jaime here in Cremona. When I dare to walk without her, people ask about her whereabouts and worry about her well-being! It's thanks to her if I've made connections and have gotten to know people since I've moved up north.
Lola, our dog, is always greeted first and has earned the descriptor “The Best Dog in Anghiari” at the pizzeria. I also love that there are three dogs who run loose around the village, all with their own stops and routines, and everyone knows them. Daisy, for instance, always stops by the bar at 10 for a snack, all on her own.
Excellent post, Eric! I can confirm that I have had nothing but uuuhhs and aahhs when I have travelled there with my dog. Roma is great with lots of fountains to drink from and lovely people who stop to chat... with my dog. LoL
Thank you! Mocha is with you on the fountains. She drinks from them regularly and on really hot days she just stands under them and lets the cold water wash over her back! She doesn’t like swimming but she’s a big supporter of the “nasone” fountains.
Agree--the fountains are so great--that they are at dog-level.
When I worked at the school, your mom always talked about how Mocha went everywhere with you.
They really got along wonderfully when my mom came to Rome ... Mocha was so sad she was leaving that Mocha ran after the taxi taking my mom to the airport!
My friend Ella lives in Sermoneta with an enormous maremano who is a town celebrity. Nino Pecorino
I love this. I work in dog rescue in Lazio. Although I need to point out that while Italy does have some of the best laws for our domestic friends, the culture has not caught up with the laws and there are still about 750,000 dogs living in what we call canile lagher. People don't sterilise their animals and they still buy designer dogs.
I don't take my dogs to my bar, because I have five, but I am obsessed with Martino the Jack Russell. They have snacks just for him behind the bar. He is a local celebrity. When my husband comes home I always ask him if he saw Martino. I couldn't even tell you the name of his dad or what he looks like. Martino is legend!!
I thought about discussing kennel reform and sterilization, but I couldn't think of a way to discuss the topic quickly and I didn't want the post to be dominated by that.
I know most of the dogs in my neighborhood and I'm aware of only a couple that came from breeders. At least in San Paolo/Garbatella it seems like having a "trovatello" is admired.
I think it depends on the neighborhood. I have noticed more adopted dogs around than even ten years ago which gives me hope. If you know anyone looking for a dog anywhere in central Italy let me know. I have one talent and that is placing the right dogs with the right family personality wise. My volunteer job is interviewing families before adoption. I'm currently looking to place an adorable Westie. I want him but my dog Chardonnay is 17 and deserves peace with no terrier disruptions.
I enjoyed this. I live in Rome and have a 100lb mastiff. Everywhere we go, people smile at her and ask questions. It's heaven having a dog here.
Wow, that's a big dog -- almost 4 times larger than Mocha!
A friend of mine has a Great Dane -- I don't know if it weighs as much as your dog (he probably is), but it seems like he's as tall as a horse. And Romans can't get enough of him.
Yeah, Danes are the true showstoppers! I wrote this piece about traveling with my big girl (and cat) in case any of your readers are scrolling the comments and need some info: https://substack.com/@lisaellzey/note/p-170454780
This was one of the first topics I wrote about when I launched my Substack. Seeing how affectionate Romans are toward dogs kind of makes sense when you realize that they have been symbols of fidelity since antiquity. I never thought about dogs and the papacy though. Very interesting!
I just found that post and read it, Laura. I'm sorry for your loss of such a faithful friend. Did you and Marco get another dog?
Thanks, Eric. We still have one dog, Wendy, who is actually Pepita's mother. Most of the puppies from that litter were adopted by other families, but Pepita was our sweet girl til the end.
Great read! I’ve often thought about indexing my stories from the true crime beat according to the names of the accuseds’ hounds: Snatch & Medellìn my favourites so far...
That would be a fun thing to write about, assuming you could get true, heartfelt anecdotes about the dogs from their owners. I could imagine the eyes watering up on some hardened criminal as he reflects on not seeing his faithful friend while in prison.
I was surprised to find Italy so dog friendly. It really puts Australia (where I currently live) to shame. I can't wait to take my Honey everywhere.
Italy will be like Heaven for Honey!
Now if only the country could be a little more small-kid friendly.
Glad Mocha is treated so well. She deserves it ;)
Do you really think Italy isn't child-friendly? I always thought it was -- maybe not in terms of infrastructure, but people seem to fawn over children.
P.S. Mocha says hi!
With children, infrastructure is everything ;)
You went gently on Pope Benedict. As a journalist who covered his papacy, I can say that he was better known — in terms of canine nicknames — as “God’s Rottweiler,” a reference to his fierce crackdowns on dissent to safeguard doctrinal orthodoxy in the Catholic Church. Near Villa Pamphili in Rome, a neighborhood with many, many dog-owners, stores thoughtfully put hooks outside their premises where dogs can be safely tied up while patrons shop. And many a shop places a doggie water bowl outside. A welcome mark of civility.
Of course, you are correct, Frances.
I'm not particularly religious but I much preferred JP2 and Francis to Benedict on a personal level. And I know he was the Church's enforcer both as pontiff and especially as prefect of the Congregation for the Doctrine of the Faith.
The two difficult areas I seriously considered including involved Benedict and Italy's spotty history with dog kennels. But I thought neither could be addressed in passing (the way Francis' dogs/cats/children comment could) and I didn't want to let the post be dominated by those things, so in the end I left them out. But your point is well taken.
On a more enjoyable topic, I have noticed how the area around Villa Pamphili is especially dog friendly, even by Roman standards! When Mocha was younger we used to go running there and wherever we went afterwards for coffee or a bite to eat, it was full of dogs and they were always the center of attention. I'm sure you know that cafe, ViVi, which is actually inside Villa Pamphili. Sometimes it seems like that place is a dog paradise where people are allowed to sometimes come along.
Thank you for the comment.
I never understood the appeal of Benedict ... I know he was popular with some serious Catholics.
Mocha is very cute!!! She runs through the streets? How do you know she won't keep goin and get lost?
I heard pop Leo is a cat guy.
Is it a trick of perspective or is that horse at the end super short??
It's a dwarf horse at the end. Good eye!
Yes, she runs through the streets! If you click on the link where that's mentioned you can see her do it. She only does it on streets she knows, where there's no traffic. It's been a while since I have had her run in an unfamiliar area, but back when I did it I'd usually walk the area with her first and then do it slowly on the motorino, then, once she knew it, more quickly.
Betty and I are dog lovers, with two of our own who are definitely family. Great column!
Thank you! I think I knew you were dog lovers.
I've always regretting not being able to bring Mocha to the U.S. I'm sure she would love to meet you. Unfortunately, the weight limit for a dog in the cabin is 10 kg and Mocha weighs 13 kg, and I don't want to have her make the trip in the baggage hold.
Moved to Abruzzo from the US a few months back with our 4 year old Australian Shepherd. Needless to say, he’s so happy here, we get coffee every morning and he can go in almost every shop, including the macelleria where he gets tons of samples of fegato etc. More people in town know his name than mine, but that’s ok. Having a dog here as an ex-pat opens so many doors to conversation and connection.
Have you met an Abruzzo Sheepdog yet?
I agree on a good dog acting as a door opener. In addition to the adoration dogs get, they're also proof that you're a resident. I imagine it's a little different in Abruzzo, but here in Rome all the tricksters looking for "donations" in return for small trinkets or bracelets just look past me when I'm with Mocha. They assume I'm Roman and so it would be better to focus in on the tourist behind me.
Yes I have, they’re incredible, but never ever bring your domestic dog near them especially if they’re working. Abruzzese sheepdogs can take down wolves, they’re the top of the pyramid around here, but watching them work with human shepherds (sometimes we go to the Campo Imperatore to hike and watch) is really amazing.
I was surprised to find all cities weren't as dog loving as Rome is.
Friends and family back home have the opposite view: they're amazed every time they see a photo of Mocha in a coffee bar or the supermarket!
Sounds like my Jaime here in Cremona. When I dare to walk without her, people ask about her whereabouts and worry about her well-being! It's thanks to her if I've made connections and have gotten to know people since I've moved up north.
Lola, our dog, is always greeted first and has earned the descriptor “The Best Dog in Anghiari” at the pizzeria. I also love that there are three dogs who run loose around the village, all with their own stops and routines, and everyone knows them. Daisy, for instance, always stops by the bar at 10 for a snack, all on her own.