So very true. Great post. I do believe Venice is for the off season, but it can be enjoyed most of the year, if you pick your area. Definitely winter if you want to do the highlights, but if you wander around Castello, or Cannaregio, you can find tourist free spots, at least in the shoulder seasons. As for navigation: Turn off your phone. Put it in your pocket. Let your eyes soak it in and start to use your natural sense of direction. Venice is small enough that you cannot really get lost. Sure, you may miss a lunch reservation by 20 minutes, but in off-season, that rarely matters. Venice is for wandering. Nice one, Eric!
I agree 100% on picking your spots in the high season. We visited a friend in Castello on the last trip and she told me that summers are not nearly as hectic there. My go-to high-season place is Giudecca.
The advice about turning the phone off is spot on -- and not just in Venice (I annoy friends sometimes because I'm don't always answer messages on time).
Yes x1000, Venice off-season is a return to how humanity should be living. I go to the racetrack and am a die-hard "tifoso" (Ferrarista, for others), buuuut I LOVE that cars are a non-starter in Venice. I can't wait to be back. In winter.
I would add not just Venice but the whole of Italy in the off season is magical. You get to see Venezia, not Venice. Firenze, not Florence. Food is just as good, (maybe better) cities more beautiful and locals are happier. See you in February!!
What a nice way to put it, Brian! That's poetic -- I'm going to steal that in a future post.
I admit the grey skies can feel a bit heavy sometimes, especially up north. But it's a fair tradeoff for all the other benefits you mentioned. And the weather I've seen in Venice the last two times has been phenomenal.
My first time there was around 1975....only magical!!!! I took my granddaughter there a few years ago, and I don't think she appreciated it as much as I have. I will be back there in October, hope I won't be disappointed!!!!
I agree on all points - La Serenissima is one of my favorite cities to visit and I have never been during high season...which means that I have waded across San Marco and listened to the alta marea sirens many times. We definitely have to exchange notes on favorite Venice restaurants/osterie.
I loved this, and agree so much. A couple of years ago, we spent the Christmas holidays on the Amalfi coast, and it was so lovely, and so empty. And still warm enough to sit on the balcony (with a blanket) and watch the sunset on the sea.
This is spot-on. My best trips to Venezia have been in December and January. The winter is when I discovered Chiara, the only woman gondolier (gondoliera!), and some of my now go-to restaurants.
Probably because of my age, I rely on a compass as much or more than a GPS program. We just returned from Las Vegas, which we lived in for almost 13 years. No maps needed. But our rental car did not have a built-in compass! I was really challenged for our 5 days running around the city! I completely agree with avoiding crowds. It takes the fun out of everything, especially with how rude younger generations seem to be. Looking forward to our trip your way next year!
Every place is better when the crowds are smaller. That means you either have to go further from the tourist centers in the highseasons .... either in terms of weeks or kilometers.
I love reading The Italian Dispatch for the insights such as those you share here. Hooray for zigging when others zag! And thanks for a tip on another spot in Venice!
So very true. Great post. I do believe Venice is for the off season, but it can be enjoyed most of the year, if you pick your area. Definitely winter if you want to do the highlights, but if you wander around Castello, or Cannaregio, you can find tourist free spots, at least in the shoulder seasons. As for navigation: Turn off your phone. Put it in your pocket. Let your eyes soak it in and start to use your natural sense of direction. Venice is small enough that you cannot really get lost. Sure, you may miss a lunch reservation by 20 minutes, but in off-season, that rarely matters. Venice is for wandering. Nice one, Eric!
I agree 100% on picking your spots in the high season. We visited a friend in Castello on the last trip and she told me that summers are not nearly as hectic there. My go-to high-season place is Giudecca.
The advice about turning the phone off is spot on -- and not just in Venice (I annoy friends sometimes because I'm don't always answer messages on time).
We are going for the first time in early January, and this has just taken my excited anticipation up another notch
I'm envious that you'll have a chance to experience Venice for the first time! Enjoy!
Yes x1000, Venice off-season is a return to how humanity should be living. I go to the racetrack and am a die-hard "tifoso" (Ferrarista, for others), buuuut I LOVE that cars are a non-starter in Venice. I can't wait to be back. In winter.
If I'm in Venice for a few days, the first cars I see when I return to the mainland are a little jolting!
I would add not just Venice but the whole of Italy in the off season is magical. You get to see Venezia, not Venice. Firenze, not Florence. Food is just as good, (maybe better) cities more beautiful and locals are happier. See you in February!!
What a nice way to put it, Brian! That's poetic -- I'm going to steal that in a future post.
I admit the grey skies can feel a bit heavy sometimes, especially up north. But it's a fair tradeoff for all the other benefits you mentioned. And the weather I've seen in Venice the last two times has been phenomenal.
My first time there was around 1975....only magical!!!! I took my granddaughter there a few years ago, and I don't think she appreciated it as much as I have. I will be back there in October, hope I won't be disappointed!!!!
Wow, Venice must have been a sight to behold in 1975!
I think October is probably the first sane month after the high season. You're going to love it!
I couldn't agree more with offseason travel, and this is coming from someone who chose to sail a dinghy during the winter months in the US Northeast.
Winter dinghy sailing is no joke! I went sailing in the winter once (and only once) when I lived in Connecticut.
Thanks for the comment!
I agree on all points - La Serenissima is one of my favorite cities to visit and I have never been during high season...which means that I have waded across San Marco and listened to the alta marea sirens many times. We definitely have to exchange notes on favorite Venice restaurants/osterie.
I went up for the Acqua Alta in 2019, but as a journalist, not a tourist. I'd never seen anything like that!
Yes, absolutely, agreed about comparing notes.
I loved this, and agree so much. A couple of years ago, we spent the Christmas holidays on the Amalfi coast, and it was so lovely, and so empty. And still warm enough to sit on the balcony (with a blanket) and watch the sunset on the sea.
This is spot-on. My best trips to Venezia have been in December and January. The winter is when I discovered Chiara, the only woman gondolier (gondoliera!), and some of my now go-to restaurants.
Probably because of my age, I rely on a compass as much or more than a GPS program. We just returned from Las Vegas, which we lived in for almost 13 years. No maps needed. But our rental car did not have a built-in compass! I was really challenged for our 5 days running around the city! I completely agree with avoiding crowds. It takes the fun out of everything, especially with how rude younger generations seem to be. Looking forward to our trip your way next year!
Every place is better when the crowds are smaller. That means you either have to go further from the tourist centers in the highseasons .... either in terms of weeks or kilometers.
100% prefer the off-season ❤️
I love reading The Italian Dispatch for the insights such as those you share here. Hooray for zigging when others zag! And thanks for a tip on another spot in Venice!
I got lost there one foggy November night and I honestly wondered if I would find my way out. It was cold and damp and very dark but I didn’t panic.
It's all about zigging and zagging!
I never heard of Michelangelo Pistoletto but he looks cool! I like his work. He's in his 90s now and still kickin'