What a joy to find Nannarella in my Substack today! I wasn't familiar with this picture, I'll have to find a way to zoom in on it but from the app, I'm not able to. Can't wait to look at it properly!
Nannarella! I haven't heard her called that in a while. I know she is quintessentially Roman, but what do people think of her up north? Or is your image of her formed from your time in Gaeta?
I'm noticing! Thanks for sharing it. I can't imagine people in Lombardia fully grasping Anna Magnani. My knowledge of her is formed by my parents being both movie lovers and mentioning her a lot. What a pity nobody class her Nannarella anymore but time goes by and there's a wider emotional distance. But that's not entirely true either because I think the reason she's surfacing in so much street art is that her attitude and spark probably resonates more to 2026 sensibilities?
It's an interesting idea, that 2026 sensibilities draw us toward authentic figures like Magnani. I need to think about that.
Did you notice that in my Substack Note from today I used "Nannarella"? It was because you reminded me of it. The original draft just said "La Magnani."
I look forward to reading everything you write, not only for the nuanced perspective you bring to life here, but also the artful way you capture and express it. The image of Magnani peeling off the wall is perfect. Was in Trastevere yesterday and I noticed that one of my favorite images-- Trump as a brownshirt-- is peeling off as well. I found it a little reassuring: a reminder that time sooner or later erases a lot of the posturing and posing of those in power. Thanks always for your insightful, illuminating dispatches!
Oooh! I never saw the Trump brown shirt mural! Where is/was it? Did you take a photo? I'm still in the U.S. but it start my top back today. I'd like to go find it.
I don't know what it says about me, but when I saw the peeled off version, but first thought wasn't "What a shame!" it was "Oh, this will be a good image for the newsletter!" Haha. Sad but true (in my defense, the "What a shame!" though came a moment later).
It's always very flattering to receive sincere comments like yours from another writer.
"The newsletter sent to subscribers on Tuesdays is never the same as the one it becomes a day or two later."
This really does happen and since he's happening here, it's because you create the environment ripe for (positive) thoughtful engagement and depth of discussion.
Plus, you never know what sideroads you will be traveling in the comment section.
Bring Italian food and drink for the journey, Eric.
This is among the best compliments I can think of. Thank you!
As you would guess, I love the comments section here. More than one Substack expert over the last year has suggested I limit commenting on even new posts to paid subscribers in order to increase the monetization of the newsletter, and I never considered it for even a moment.
Anyway, thank you for reading and for the thoughtful comment!
I don't want to face off in anyone's mind again Henry James! But, I agree, that would be a dramatic contrast. Seems like it could add context to both sides.
I believe Blub is actually FROM Florence, or at least based there. His pieces are rare sitings in Rome, Milan, and Venice, but in theory they should be much more common in Florence. If you follow the link on the photo's cutline in the article you'll see the catalogue of his work. It's very interesting. The diver's masks are symbols of cultural immersion based on what I read.
Once again, you took readers "inside" your mind; your thought process. It's fascinating. I understand your liking the picture. There is a lot going on, and with imagination multiple stories could be generated. I appreciated the open window on the front, right of the photo. It gives a "airy" feeling to everything. Fresh air cannot be over-rated! I am curious- you noted her image was torn from the wall, only pieces left. Do artists paint their images and just paste those to public walls? Here in the Midwest, the artists are always painting on actual walls of businesses. So, after a couple of years it starts to fade, and after 5-6 years it's almost a ghost image. Then they have to paint over it and start again! I like learning cultural differences, and your experiences are priceless!
P.S. Steve, This kind of art is called a "wheat paste mural" -- it's created by the artist elsewhere, then attached to the wall using wheat paste (don't ask me what that is), then retouched on the wall to fill in gaps and make each one unique, then it's painted over again to make it waster resistant. That's what made the outline in the last photo: the bonding agent on the wall around the piece made the wall shiny.
I think the city prefers this kind of graffiti since it's easier to remove when necessary, and I'm sure it's easier for the artist to produce something precise. But we still have plenty of the old-fashioned kind of graffiti as well. I have an essay about graffiti on the back burner ... I'll get to it eventually.
There's so much to see in this photo. I hadn't really thought about the open windows before your comment, but when I looked at them I could feel the breeze coming in. It made me want to sit in that chaise longue near the first window. Then I noticed that small sculpture in that window -- someone would have to move it every time they opened or closed the window.
But I also noticed the ashtrays everywhere. I know Magnani was a heavy smoker, so maybe that gives a hint as why she needed open windows!
I noticed Magnani is casually holding a cigarette. Was this an intentional “prop” or because everyone of her generation seemed to smoke, it was a “natural thing.”
No, she was a heavy smoker. It was part of her identity. I read something once that said she survived for days at a time on cigarettes and black coffee alone. She even smoked cigars in nightclubs and would often stay out all night..
She was one of the all-time great actors, but she did not have a healthy lifestyle. It's almost certain that her cigs contributed to her death (from pancreatic cancer) at the too-young age of 65.
I tried to e mail you the picture and location. It was near piazza di mercanti. She’s winking . Also found one #lidasis with superwoman with a baby in a front pack in Bari.
I’d rather not post an email address in the comments, but do you mind to look at the “Subscriptions” like on the newsletter’s home page and to email it to the address at the bottom of that page? I genuinely have no idea where emails sent via Substack end up.
The film was "Fellini's Roma" from 1972! It wasn't a big role, but it was her last film, a year before she died. Fellini and Magnani had apparently talked about working together for years and with Magnani's health on the decline the finally did it.
I'm downloading the film now so I can re-re-watch it on my flight back to Rome. I'm a Magnani fan (obviously) but to be honest I hadn't remembered she was in the film. I had to look it up.
Anna Magnani an icon in Italy. There are those iconic women that are remembered from generation to generation like Umm Kulthum in Egypt and Lata Mangeshkar from India.
I know little about Mangeshkar and until your message hadn’t heard of Kulthum. But if they’re the equivalent of Magnani in such rich cultures, I’m going to learn more. Thanks, Kevin.
This is, in teacher speak, a great reflection on your work and how it has evolved! I like the fact that the essays have become more personal. And that is clearly connected to the fact that are you seeing and experiencing the city (and country) differently. Congrats on one year!
I think you’re right! I believe that noticing more came before the more personal writing. But I also think feeling more comfortable with the medium and noticing what topics seemed to resonate had an impact as well.
What a joy to find Nannarella in my Substack today! I wasn't familiar with this picture, I'll have to find a way to zoom in on it but from the app, I'm not able to. Can't wait to look at it properly!
There's so much to see in that photo, Elfin!
Nannarella! I haven't heard her called that in a while. I know she is quintessentially Roman, but what do people think of her up north? Or is your image of her formed from your time in Gaeta?
I'm noticing! Thanks for sharing it. I can't imagine people in Lombardia fully grasping Anna Magnani. My knowledge of her is formed by my parents being both movie lovers and mentioning her a lot. What a pity nobody class her Nannarella anymore but time goes by and there's a wider emotional distance. But that's not entirely true either because I think the reason she's surfacing in so much street art is that her attitude and spark probably resonates more to 2026 sensibilities?
It's an interesting idea, that 2026 sensibilities draw us toward authentic figures like Magnani. I need to think about that.
Did you notice that in my Substack Note from today I used "Nannarella"? It was because you reminded me of it. The original draft just said "La Magnani."
È un mito, la Magnani
I look forward to reading everything you write, not only for the nuanced perspective you bring to life here, but also the artful way you capture and express it. The image of Magnani peeling off the wall is perfect. Was in Trastevere yesterday and I noticed that one of my favorite images-- Trump as a brownshirt-- is peeling off as well. I found it a little reassuring: a reminder that time sooner or later erases a lot of the posturing and posing of those in power. Thanks always for your insightful, illuminating dispatches!
Thank you, Eric!
Oooh! I never saw the Trump brown shirt mural! Where is/was it? Did you take a photo? I'm still in the U.S. but it start my top back today. I'd like to go find it.
I don't know what it says about me, but when I saw the peeled off version, but first thought wasn't "What a shame!" it was "Oh, this will be a good image for the newsletter!" Haha. Sad but true (in my defense, the "What a shame!" though came a moment later).
It's always very flattering to receive sincere comments like yours from another writer.
"The newsletter sent to subscribers on Tuesdays is never the same as the one it becomes a day or two later."
This really does happen and since he's happening here, it's because you create the environment ripe for (positive) thoughtful engagement and depth of discussion.
Plus, you never know what sideroads you will be traveling in the comment section.
Bring Italian food and drink for the journey, Eric.
This is among the best compliments I can think of. Thank you!
As you would guess, I love the comments section here. More than one Substack expert over the last year has suggested I limit commenting on even new posts to paid subscribers in order to increase the monetization of the newsletter, and I never considered it for even a moment.
Anyway, thank you for reading and for the thoughtful comment!
I'm reading Henry James on Rome so this is an interesting contrast.
I don't want to face off in anyone's mind again Henry James! But, I agree, that would be a dramatic contrast. Seems like it could add context to both sides.
You always manage to find something intriguing to share!
Blub has a number of "pieces" around the streets of Firenze too - featuring Renaissance icons wearing scuba masks.
Thank you, Glenda!
I believe Blub is actually FROM Florence, or at least based there. His pieces are rare sitings in Rome, Milan, and Venice, but in theory they should be much more common in Florence. If you follow the link on the photo's cutline in the article you'll see the catalogue of his work. It's very interesting. The diver's masks are symbols of cultural immersion based on what I read.
L'arte sa nuotare! The best😍
Once again, you took readers "inside" your mind; your thought process. It's fascinating. I understand your liking the picture. There is a lot going on, and with imagination multiple stories could be generated. I appreciated the open window on the front, right of the photo. It gives a "airy" feeling to everything. Fresh air cannot be over-rated! I am curious- you noted her image was torn from the wall, only pieces left. Do artists paint their images and just paste those to public walls? Here in the Midwest, the artists are always painting on actual walls of businesses. So, after a couple of years it starts to fade, and after 5-6 years it's almost a ghost image. Then they have to paint over it and start again! I like learning cultural differences, and your experiences are priceless!
P.S. Steve, This kind of art is called a "wheat paste mural" -- it's created by the artist elsewhere, then attached to the wall using wheat paste (don't ask me what that is), then retouched on the wall to fill in gaps and make each one unique, then it's painted over again to make it waster resistant. That's what made the outline in the last photo: the bonding agent on the wall around the piece made the wall shiny.
I think the city prefers this kind of graffiti since it's easier to remove when necessary, and I'm sure it's easier for the artist to produce something precise. But we still have plenty of the old-fashioned kind of graffiti as well. I have an essay about graffiti on the back burner ... I'll get to it eventually.
Thank you Steve!
There's so much to see in this photo. I hadn't really thought about the open windows before your comment, but when I looked at them I could feel the breeze coming in. It made me want to sit in that chaise longue near the first window. Then I noticed that small sculpture in that window -- someone would have to move it every time they opened or closed the window.
But I also noticed the ashtrays everywhere. I know Magnani was a heavy smoker, so maybe that gives a hint as why she needed open windows!
I noticed Magnani is casually holding a cigarette. Was this an intentional “prop” or because everyone of her generation seemed to smoke, it was a “natural thing.”
No, she was a heavy smoker. It was part of her identity. I read something once that said she survived for days at a time on cigarettes and black coffee alone. She even smoked cigars in nightclubs and would often stay out all night..
She was one of the all-time great actors, but she did not have a healthy lifestyle. It's almost certain that her cigs contributed to her death (from pancreatic cancer) at the too-young age of 65.
Plus, look at all the ashtrays all around the room
I snapped a lidasis superwoman April 4 in travestere.
It must have been the same one I saw. Was it near Piazza dei Ponziani?
I tried to e mail you the picture and location. It was near piazza di mercanti. She’s winking . Also found one #lidasis with superwoman with a baby in a front pack in Bari.
I’d rather not post an email address in the comments, but do you mind to look at the “Subscriptions” like on the newsletter’s home page and to email it to the address at the bottom of that page? I genuinely have no idea where emails sent via Substack end up.
I didn't know she made a film with Fellini. What was it?? Another good post.
The film was "Fellini's Roma" from 1972! It wasn't a big role, but it was her last film, a year before she died. Fellini and Magnani had apparently talked about working together for years and with Magnani's health on the decline the finally did it.
I'm crying. Saw this 25 years ago and it's haunted me ever since. The silence. The white, negative space on film.
What a "film guy" comment. Wonderful.
I'm downloading the film now so I can re-re-watch it on my flight back to Rome. I'm a Magnani fan (obviously) but to be honest I hadn't remembered she was in the film. I had to look it up.
Wow, a whole year. Congrats. Here's to an even better 2nd year!
Anna Magnani an icon in Italy. There are those iconic women that are remembered from generation to generation like Umm Kulthum in Egypt and Lata Mangeshkar from India.
I know little about Mangeshkar and until your message hadn’t heard of Kulthum. But if they’re the equivalent of Magnani in such rich cultures, I’m going to learn more. Thanks, Kevin.
Agree with you. It is all about the conversation. And about really seeing things where we live. You do it well. 1,400+ of us agree, too. : ))
What a nice comment. Thank you Barbara!
This is, in teacher speak, a great reflection on your work and how it has evolved! I like the fact that the essays have become more personal. And that is clearly connected to the fact that are you seeing and experiencing the city (and country) differently. Congrats on one year!
I think you’re right! I believe that noticing more came before the more personal writing. But I also think feeling more comfortable with the medium and noticing what topics seemed to resonate had an impact as well.
Such a great photo! Thanks for sharing.
Your newsletter is such a treasure. Keep writing it and keep chronicling no matter what.
I don’t handle flattering compliments very well, Monica, so in lieu of writing something awkward I’ll just write: Many thanks!
È un mito, la Magnani