It turns out I’ve taken the reputation of Italian wine for granted. I grew up in small town South Carolina - my exposure to wine included seeing a “fiasco” in Roman Holiday, my dad ordering a white zin (with his steak!), and eventually drinking (very) questionable vino. By the time I moved to Italy and started developing a palate, the benefits of the Italian wine renaissance were fully in place. And I’ve been enjoying those benefits without ever knowing the difference! Thanks for helping me better understand something I very much enjoy!
I had lunch at a place in Campo dei Fori popular for its carbonara a few weeks ago. The wine list is super interesting with some truly obscure & well priced Lazio wines. I was excited to see one from the cantina Sant’Eufemia (they grow grapes & kiwis!) it’s cheap & light & has an interesting story, all things that were appropriate for the group I was with. The waiter was SO insistent that I order a wine aged in an amphorae (I knew that one too delicious) but not the one I wanted. It was €50. I had to really fight for the wine that I wanted. That had not happened to me in so long.
That's frustrating! I guess we could be generous and say the waiter was just *convinced* you'd like the amphora wine. But I think there are only two places you could have been and if it's either of them I'm pretty sure he was just trying to pad the bill.
On the positive side, I've occasionally seen wines from Cantina Sant’Eufemia on wine lists and have never tried them. With your recommendation I'm going to order one the next time I see them!
It's gotten so bad this year (b/c of the Jubilee?!?) that if a place is within 250m of a major tourist spot I won't eat there. I guess that's a good rule in general, and not just in Rome, but this year is worst than ever.
Someone needs to speak four languages for this one: English, French, Italian, and Ancient Greece! I learned a lot... I remember you told me about your visit to France once. It's funny.
Eric, Ten years ago this month you drove me across town to a Michelin-star restaurant in a dicey Roman neighborhood. We ate outside to the clatter of teenage skateboarders. I recall you ordering a bottle of unpasteurized red wine, about which you shared the long Italian history of local winemaking. The wine was cloudy. It was also uniquely delicious. Do you recall: Where were we? What was that wine?
And yes, I’m surprised it took you this long to focus your dispatch on wine. I trust it won’t be the last.
The restaurant was Primo in Pignetto, which has been closed now for several years. The unfiltered wine was from Friuli, but I don't recall the winemaker. Maybe Radikon? No, that doesn't quite sound right. That's the right kind of wine maker, but I think I recall an opaque, light-colored bottle and I think Radikon has only ever had dark green bottles.
In any case, I remember parts of the evening very well. I can't believe it's been ten years!
Believe it or not, the same Montepulciano-Montepulciano switcheroo was tried twice on me, and another time a waiter tried to give me a Barbera instead of a Barolo by the same producer. That one worked until I saw the color of the wine: the labels were similar.
But, to be honest, nothing like that has happened in years. It could be because I'm older or because my Italian has improved. But I think it's probably because I've gotten better at recognizing and avoiding that kind of restaurant.
It turns out I’ve taken the reputation of Italian wine for granted. I grew up in small town South Carolina - my exposure to wine included seeing a “fiasco” in Roman Holiday, my dad ordering a white zin (with his steak!), and eventually drinking (very) questionable vino. By the time I moved to Italy and started developing a palate, the benefits of the Italian wine renaissance were fully in place. And I’ve been enjoying those benefits without ever knowing the difference! Thanks for helping me better understand something I very much enjoy!
White Zinfandel with steak?!? Suddenly, I don't feel well. Haha.
I had lunch at a place in Campo dei Fori popular for its carbonara a few weeks ago. The wine list is super interesting with some truly obscure & well priced Lazio wines. I was excited to see one from the cantina Sant’Eufemia (they grow grapes & kiwis!) it’s cheap & light & has an interesting story, all things that were appropriate for the group I was with. The waiter was SO insistent that I order a wine aged in an amphorae (I knew that one too delicious) but not the one I wanted. It was €50. I had to really fight for the wine that I wanted. That had not happened to me in so long.
That's frustrating! I guess we could be generous and say the waiter was just *convinced* you'd like the amphora wine. But I think there are only two places you could have been and if it's either of them I'm pretty sure he was just trying to pad the bill.
On the positive side, I've occasionally seen wines from Cantina Sant’Eufemia on wine lists and have never tried them. With your recommendation I'm going to order one the next time I see them!
It's gotten so bad this year (b/c of the Jubilee?!?) that if a place is within 250m of a major tourist spot I won't eat there. I guess that's a good rule in general, and not just in Rome, but this year is worst than ever.
Someone needs to speak four languages for this one: English, French, Italian, and Ancient Greece! I learned a lot... I remember you told me about your visit to France once. It's funny.
I think speaking a little of the wine nerd dialect could help as well!
Eric, Ten years ago this month you drove me across town to a Michelin-star restaurant in a dicey Roman neighborhood. We ate outside to the clatter of teenage skateboarders. I recall you ordering a bottle of unpasteurized red wine, about which you shared the long Italian history of local winemaking. The wine was cloudy. It was also uniquely delicious. Do you recall: Where were we? What was that wine?
And yes, I’m surprised it took you this long to focus your dispatch on wine. I trust it won’t be the last.
What a good memory you have, Justin!
The restaurant was Primo in Pignetto, which has been closed now for several years. The unfiltered wine was from Friuli, but I don't recall the winemaker. Maybe Radikon? No, that doesn't quite sound right. That's the right kind of wine maker, but I think I recall an opaque, light-colored bottle and I think Radikon has only ever had dark green bottles.
In any case, I remember parts of the evening very well. I can't believe it's been ten years!
Mocha joined us, riding along on the floorboard of your scooter…
She's much older now but she still does that! Did you ever see her hop off the motorino and run one of her courses?
Here's a recent one: https://www.instagram.com/p/DA8sWQnCC_Z/
Great read Eric! The Montepulciano bit made me laugh out loud.
Believe it or not, the same Montepulciano-Montepulciano switcheroo was tried twice on me, and another time a waiter tried to give me a Barbera instead of a Barolo by the same producer. That one worked until I saw the color of the wine: the labels were similar.
But, to be honest, nothing like that has happened in years. It could be because I'm older or because my Italian has improved. But I think it's probably because I've gotten better at recognizing and avoiding that kind of restaurant.
So cool that you met Riccardo Cottarella!
He was kind and helpful.