I don’t know. There are a lot of people who love a light lunch by the seaside and drive there three or four times a week to experience it. But the fall has my vote.
I prepared one last weekend! I made a version with chestnuts I roasted the day before, fresh fungi porcini, and bits of apple, using a homemade beef stock. It was very good. But if I had to do it again, I'd chop the chestnuts up into smaller pieces. As it is, it was in pieces the size of a garlic clove. But that made certain bites dry. I think it'd be better to make them the size of a raisin (that's how big the apples were). Anyway, I hop you'll try it!
Oh gosh, the fall lol. I wish we had a castagnaro here. I like roasting my own, but I also love the experience of eating roasted chestnuts while taking a stroll — I only did it once in Paris, they’re so expensive, and it gives me tourist vibes 😅 but still, it’s nice.
I always had them roasted. My grandma liked to cook them in water or milk with a bay leaf, but that’s about it. I’ll have to do some research. I saw a great risotto recipe with mushrooms and chestnuts, and it sounds delicious.
I had a couple of friends over dinner last night: the first completely autumn meal of the year. We started with a delicious, crisp, dry rose' Champagne and then three bottles of full bodied mostly-Sangiovese Super-Tuscans (one of them from the wine bottle photo in the article). I want to get through all those reds before the weather starts to warm up again.
Wow. Another packed dispatch! Your writing provides so much "food for thought" I always have to re-read it at least once, if not twice. Love your research and writing!
I saw the chestnut guys this weekend as well, and both my wife and I commented on it. I wonder if they know that people time their season based on their arrival. And I love your comment about "Are you ready for the fall?" I'm afraid we're all in apocalypse mode these days.
I doubt the castagnari know about this informal role they have. When I bought the season's first cone of chestnuts Sunday, I tried to strike up a conversation with the seller and he wasn't interested. I asked him where the chestnuts were from and what he did in the "off season" and he was leery -- I think he thought I was a cop or something. But I'm pretty sure it's just a job.
It used to be older Roman men who sold the chestnuts, and now it mostly seems to be Bengali immigrants. But a lot of them still seem to speak with the same gritty accent as the Romans.
Reading this from Somerset, where I’m pulling out the last tomatoes, raspberries, and apples, and planting onions and garlic for winter. I always buy a paper cone of chestnuts when I’m in Rome, pure autumn happiness. Here it’s more apple crumble, but the feeling’s the same. 🌰🍎🍂
We do have chestnuts here but never seen the guys selling them like in the streets in Italy certainly you don’t have it in a paper cone, at least around here.
Kidding. You're talking to a guy who does a lot of cooking in the U.S. My best trick so far for overcoming blandness is to add spice. Then I over-spice things when I come back. It's the same thing with my Italian, which worsens because I speak so much Spanish at home. The flight to Rome is just the first step to getting back into the swing of things, but a full return can take another week or so.
Fall is the one season I miss most since moving to Florida. I think I’ll finally be able to turn off my AC and open my windows this weekend. At least in the morning.
There's nothing like the oppressive heat in Florida. I'm glad it's cooling a little by now.
Growing up in Florida, I didn't even know the change of seasons was something to savor until I moved away. I miss a lot about Florida -- friends and family are the most important -- but the weather is not on the list!
I can remember as a child going into the centre with my parents and having hot chestnuts as a treat for putting up with the tedium of grownups shopping. My town has a big sagra delle castagne this coming weekend, and I love them in a lasagna with porcini and sausage, or thrown into the roasting tray with whichever vegetables I'm cooking. I love how seasonal food is here - it's thrilling to wait for the figs or the artichokes, to gorge on them when they are around, and look forward to them next time round.
Oh, I’m jealous! I’ve never been to a sagre for chestnuts.
When you add them to roasted veggies do you soak them in water first? Also, do you pre-roast them a little? Seems they’d need more time to cook than most vegetables. I want to try it this weekend … any hints to suggest?
Absolutely my favorite season for Italian cuisine as well!
Me too! I bet it is for most people
I don’t know. There are a lot of people who love a light lunch by the seaside and drive there three or four times a week to experience it. But the fall has my vote.
The fall for me, following by Spring!
Ready for the Fall! I wouldn't have thought the same thing but I can see why you thought that. Dark and funny. Hahah!!
It’s an absolutely true story!
Oh, how I miss the mushrooms! 🍄🟫
Risotto with chestnuts..that is a new combination for me but it's really got my mouth watering...
I prepared one last weekend! I made a version with chestnuts I roasted the day before, fresh fungi porcini, and bits of apple, using a homemade beef stock. It was very good. But if I had to do it again, I'd chop the chestnuts up into smaller pieces. As it is, it was in pieces the size of a garlic clove. But that made certain bites dry. I think it'd be better to make them the size of a raisin (that's how big the apples were). Anyway, I hop you'll try it!
Oh gosh, the fall lol. I wish we had a castagnaro here. I like roasting my own, but I also love the experience of eating roasted chestnuts while taking a stroll — I only did it once in Paris, they’re so expensive, and it gives me tourist vibes 😅 but still, it’s nice.
Do you have recipes from back home that use castagne?
I always had them roasted. My grandma liked to cook them in water or milk with a bay leaf, but that’s about it. I’ll have to do some research. I saw a great risotto recipe with mushrooms and chestnuts, and it sounds delicious.
Absolutely the best approach to falling temperatures is to embraces the warm fall flavors and yes! The big, brawny red wines.
Absolutely!
I had a couple of friends over dinner last night: the first completely autumn meal of the year. We started with a delicious, crisp, dry rose' Champagne and then three bottles of full bodied mostly-Sangiovese Super-Tuscans (one of them from the wine bottle photo in the article). I want to get through all those reds before the weather starts to warm up again.
Sounds like a fabulous line-up!
Wow. Another packed dispatch! Your writing provides so much "food for thought" I always have to re-read it at least once, if not twice. Love your research and writing!
Hahaha ... food for thought! Pun intended.
Thank you for reading! Hopefully it'll be cool enough in Florida to enjoy a seasonal meal next time we meet there.
I saw the chestnut guys this weekend as well, and both my wife and I commented on it. I wonder if they know that people time their season based on their arrival. And I love your comment about "Are you ready for the fall?" I'm afraid we're all in apocalypse mode these days.
I doubt the castagnari know about this informal role they have. When I bought the season's first cone of chestnuts Sunday, I tried to strike up a conversation with the seller and he wasn't interested. I asked him where the chestnuts were from and what he did in the "off season" and he was leery -- I think he thought I was a cop or something. But I'm pretty sure it's just a job.
It used to be older Roman men who sold the chestnuts, and now it mostly seems to be Bengali immigrants. But a lot of them still seem to speak with the same gritty accent as the Romans.
Reading this from Somerset, where I’m pulling out the last tomatoes, raspberries, and apples, and planting onions and garlic for winter. I always buy a paper cone of chestnuts when I’m in Rome, pure autumn happiness. Here it’s more apple crumble, but the feeling’s the same. 🌰🍎🍂
You don't get chestnuts there? I would have guessed they'd grow in the U.K.
I'm so jealous of your garden and gardening skills. And apple crumble ... mmmm.
So this is the time to plant garlic? I was going to wait for the spring. Maybe that's what I'm doing wrong!
We do have chestnuts here but never seen the guys selling them like in the streets in Italy certainly you don’t have it in a paper cone, at least around here.
Yes for garlic, and a bit later for onions.
Food tasting like food, not plastic. The perfect metaphor for the enshittification of so many things in North America linked to the five senses.
But what do you really think??
Kidding. You're talking to a guy who does a lot of cooking in the U.S. My best trick so far for overcoming blandness is to add spice. Then I over-spice things when I come back. It's the same thing with my Italian, which worsens because I speak so much Spanish at home. The flight to Rome is just the first step to getting back into the swing of things, but a full return can take another week or so.
Fall is the one season I miss most since moving to Florida. I think I’ll finally be able to turn off my AC and open my windows this weekend. At least in the morning.
There's nothing like the oppressive heat in Florida. I'm glad it's cooling a little by now.
Growing up in Florida, I didn't even know the change of seasons was something to savor until I moved away. I miss a lot about Florida -- friends and family are the most important -- but the weather is not on the list!
I love pappardelle con cinghiale e castagne (wild bore with chestnuts). Yumm!!
Yes! If I listed four dishes instead of three that would have been one of them! Delicious.
That part about your buddy asking if you are readyf ror the fall is hilarious.
Nice column. you alwyas give us something to think about.
I can remember as a child going into the centre with my parents and having hot chestnuts as a treat for putting up with the tedium of grownups shopping. My town has a big sagra delle castagne this coming weekend, and I love them in a lasagna with porcini and sausage, or thrown into the roasting tray with whichever vegetables I'm cooking. I love how seasonal food is here - it's thrilling to wait for the figs or the artichokes, to gorge on them when they are around, and look forward to them next time round.
Oh, I’m jealous! I’ve never been to a sagre for chestnuts.
When you add them to roasted veggies do you soak them in water first? Also, do you pre-roast them a little? Seems they’d need more time to cook than most vegetables. I want to try it this weekend … any hints to suggest?
Thanks for the comment.
Ah, this is where I admit I mainly cook with the vacuum-packed ones from the supermarket.
Haha. It still sounds good. I think I'm going to roast some at home this weekend and then give it a try.
And here is a link to the sagra - it’s on the Roma-Viterbo train line. https://amp.romatoday.it/eventi/sagra-castagna-manziana-10-11-12-ottobre-2025.html
Your article makes me eager to pack my bags and return to Italy!!!!
Come back! This is the time of year to do it!