I’m too tired to recommend a restaurant, but here’s some food for thought on your piece (which I enjoyed). Pun was actually accidental. Probably subconscious. The best food experiences here, the most delicious, nourishing, sensual, and memorable are very very very rarely fancy. Hyper-curated artistic gourmet creativity is fun to experience, but I don’t even put it in the same category as dining. It feels more like a museum visit. Something clashes inside me when an Italian place is too spare, or ingredients and classic recipes aren’t instantly recognizable.
The 50 Best is a sponsored click-bait list that can do wonders for up-and-comers. That’s great! I prefer the bars list. I don’t follow the restaurants at all.
My top starred restaurant experiences are few and far between. Magnificent service, creativity, artistry on the plate. I remember everything except the flavors.
I don't disagree about the importance of regular osterie and the like -- as I mentioned in the post, that's the norm for me. There's one near my house where Mocha and I go so often the wait staff just brings me a bottle of aqua frizzante and her a puppy bowl to start and they don't even bother to give me a menu.
But I also like the option of experiencing the pinnacle of culinary excellence from time to time. For me, it's like going to La Scala rather than listening to my regular playlists, or putting on a tailored suit rather than my regular jeans or khakis. If I had to choose, I'd exclusively listen to my playlists and wear jeans. But I'm also glad I don't have to choose!
I’m a fan of delicious food - whether that is the perfect onion reduction at Reale, a fancy dinner at Glicine on the Amalfi coast, or, much more often, an amatriciana from a place off the Slow Food app. That’s part of the magic of Italian cuisine - it can be a mouth watering experience no matter the level of prestige a restaurant has. Good read, Eric!
When I was a kid my dad loved Agata e Romeo. But it's been closed for a few years. But what about Il Pagliaccio? Or what about Le Jardin in the Hotel Russie?
I have been to several restaurants that have made this list (only one appearing this year), and, while they were experiences, I have had fabulous, more memorable meals at places that will never make any list but my own. Still, it's nice to get a notch in the belt once in a while, to be able to say you've been there and then throw out a dismissive but somehow sophisticated...'it was okay'.
Da Teo for sure! I have such lovely memories of that meal we shared together with my husband and your ex girlfriend in 2022. Wine and lively conversation in a joyous and crowded place. The waiters all knew you and treated us like family.
At the end (before we stumbled back to the airbnb) you ordered us a drink to try that came in 3 or 4 glasses of different variations on the theme. What were those drinks? At the time I was all about the Aperol Spritz (which is now all over celebrity instagram). I was so chic!
Can't remember what we ate. Only that we ate too much and laughed even more. Argued over feminism and other topics that seem so sweet and innocent now given my current political context. The focus was on the people, the conversation, the attempts to squeeze all the juice out of a visit too brief. The food was our tasty backdrop, which I prefer over food as the objet d'art.
Great memories of a fun night reconnecting with an old friend over a delicious meal.
Il San Lorenzo. Like you, I have eaten at a lot of good restaurants in a lot of cities in a lot of countries. But for a combination of quality seafood, snappy presentation, impeccable service, and strangely artistic decor, Il SanLorenzo, on a side street near Campo de’ Fiori, exceeds most I have tried. I guess we have been there five times, usually with visiting friends, and everyone has come away vowing to return, which is a good sign. No idea whether the place has a Michelin star or a mention, and I do not give a toss. It just has an extra something that puts it out ahead of Rome’s other very good fish restaurants.
You've mentioned Il Sanlorenzo to me in the past. I've never been, but you've made me curious. I admit I can sometimes be dismissive of restaurants in prime, central locations, since it's so easy for them to become tourist traps.
I know this isn't something you care about, but the restaurant *is* recommended by Michelin. I hope that doesn't change your opinion of it!
Yes, I visited the Pagani plant on the same trip when I attended the Michelin ceremony in the story. There are four luxury car brands in that part of Italy and the *cheapest* among them is the Maserati. That's crazy.
I've been to a few restaurants there were on previous Top 50 lists, but on this one, I've only been to Reale, located in Abruzzo, No. 18. I've been to four of the 14 Michelin three-star properties, but they didn't all have three stars when I went. I bet Enigma was great.
I just returned from a weekend at the El Tovar Hotel on the south rim of the Grand Canyon in Arizona. I ordered Elk Milanese and sat quietly thinking how an Italian cooking technique might make game meat palatable. The dish arrived looking nothing like the usual “Milanese” but it proved true that thin slices of tenderized meat, coated in breadcrumbs, fried and served with lemon worked a trick. I could not say delicious but certainly something exotic in a wonderfully wild location. Italian restaurants may not be in the top 50 list, but Italian cooking techniques and flavours surround us.
Elk Milanese? Wow. That's one of those things that if I saw it on a menu, I'd say to the others at the table, "Hmm. Interesting. Did you see this?" But then I'd order something else.
I guess you expect exotic, gamey interpretations of dishes out west, but it still seems like bold choice -- for the chef and the diner. I'm glad it was delicious!
I’m too tired to recommend a restaurant, but here’s some food for thought on your piece (which I enjoyed). Pun was actually accidental. Probably subconscious. The best food experiences here, the most delicious, nourishing, sensual, and memorable are very very very rarely fancy. Hyper-curated artistic gourmet creativity is fun to experience, but I don’t even put it in the same category as dining. It feels more like a museum visit. Something clashes inside me when an Italian place is too spare, or ingredients and classic recipes aren’t instantly recognizable.
The 50 Best is a sponsored click-bait list that can do wonders for up-and-comers. That’s great! I prefer the bars list. I don’t follow the restaurants at all.
My top starred restaurant experiences are few and far between. Magnificent service, creativity, artistry on the plate. I remember everything except the flavors.
I don't disagree about the importance of regular osterie and the like -- as I mentioned in the post, that's the norm for me. There's one near my house where Mocha and I go so often the wait staff just brings me a bottle of aqua frizzante and her a puppy bowl to start and they don't even bother to give me a menu.
But I also like the option of experiencing the pinnacle of culinary excellence from time to time. For me, it's like going to La Scala rather than listening to my regular playlists, or putting on a tailored suit rather than my regular jeans or khakis. If I had to choose, I'd exclusively listen to my playlists and wear jeans. But I'm also glad I don't have to choose!
Another fantastic article Eric. Bravisimo!!
I’m a fan of delicious food - whether that is the perfect onion reduction at Reale, a fancy dinner at Glicine on the Amalfi coast, or, much more often, an amatriciana from a place off the Slow Food app. That’s part of the magic of Italian cuisine - it can be a mouth watering experience no matter the level of prestige a restaurant has. Good read, Eric!
I used to use the Slow Food BOOK. No idea they have an app nowdays.
Yes, I also used the book originally! They now release a new version of the app each year. Just as informative and very user friendly!
When I was a kid my dad loved Agata e Romeo. But it's been closed for a few years. But what about Il Pagliaccio? Or what about Le Jardin in the Hotel Russie?
Loved the read, loved seeing Mocha even more!
I have been to several restaurants that have made this list (only one appearing this year), and, while they were experiences, I have had fabulous, more memorable meals at places that will never make any list but my own. Still, it's nice to get a notch in the belt once in a while, to be able to say you've been there and then throw out a dismissive but somehow sophisticated...'it was okay'.
Yes, correct! Haha. Nothing like being
nonchalant about a world-class meal.
Mocha says hi!
Da Teo for sure! I have such lovely memories of that meal we shared together with my husband and your ex girlfriend in 2022. Wine and lively conversation in a joyous and crowded place. The waiters all knew you and treated us like family.
At the end (before we stumbled back to the airbnb) you ordered us a drink to try that came in 3 or 4 glasses of different variations on the theme. What were those drinks? At the time I was all about the Aperol Spritz (which is now all over celebrity instagram). I was so chic!
Can't remember what we ate. Only that we ate too much and laughed even more. Argued over feminism and other topics that seem so sweet and innocent now given my current political context. The focus was on the people, the conversation, the attempts to squeeze all the juice out of a visit too brief. The food was our tasty backdrop, which I prefer over food as the objet d'art.
Great memories of a fun night reconnecting with an old friend over a delicious meal.
So yeah, Da Teo for sure.
This is so nice, Jani! Yes, Da Teo remains one of my favorites. It’s the same now as it was then.
We experimented with different kind of amaro drinks (amaro means bitter in Italian). Yes, you were ahead of he curve on Aperol Spritz!
Il San Lorenzo. Like you, I have eaten at a lot of good restaurants in a lot of cities in a lot of countries. But for a combination of quality seafood, snappy presentation, impeccable service, and strangely artistic decor, Il SanLorenzo, on a side street near Campo de’ Fiori, exceeds most I have tried. I guess we have been there five times, usually with visiting friends, and everyone has come away vowing to return, which is a good sign. No idea whether the place has a Michelin star or a mention, and I do not give a toss. It just has an extra something that puts it out ahead of Rome’s other very good fish restaurants.
You've mentioned Il Sanlorenzo to me in the past. I've never been, but you've made me curious. I admit I can sometimes be dismissive of restaurants in prime, central locations, since it's so easy for them to become tourist traps.
I know this isn't something you care about, but the restaurant *is* recommended by Michelin. I hope that doesn't change your opinion of it!
AARGH! I haven't been to any of these! Not. A. Single. One. Thanks for ruining my life, Eric.
Wait for the 2026 list! You saw the comment on that.
But I’m a little surprised you haven’t been to Reale. It’s not that far away.
Do you know about Pagani sports cars?
I've been to one of the Top 50 (Enigma in Barcelona) and I'd love to make it to Diverxo at some point. How many have you been to?
Yes, I visited the Pagani plant on the same trip when I attended the Michelin ceremony in the story. There are four luxury car brands in that part of Italy and the *cheapest* among them is the Maserati. That's crazy.
I've been to a few restaurants there were on previous Top 50 lists, but on this one, I've only been to Reale, located in Abruzzo, No. 18. I've been to four of the 14 Michelin three-star properties, but they didn't all have three stars when I went. I bet Enigma was great.
Eric, I might have to kill you if they actually let you drive a Pagani. Or even touch one.
I sat in the drivers’ seat of a Pagani! But that was it.
The three categories are spot on!
Thanks! I almost included museums but then I thought that's because of the cultural riches.
I just returned from a weekend at the El Tovar Hotel on the south rim of the Grand Canyon in Arizona. I ordered Elk Milanese and sat quietly thinking how an Italian cooking technique might make game meat palatable. The dish arrived looking nothing like the usual “Milanese” but it proved true that thin slices of tenderized meat, coated in breadcrumbs, fried and served with lemon worked a trick. I could not say delicious but certainly something exotic in a wonderfully wild location. Italian restaurants may not be in the top 50 list, but Italian cooking techniques and flavours surround us.
What an insightful comment.
Elk Milanese? Wow. That's one of those things that if I saw it on a menu, I'd say to the others at the table, "Hmm. Interesting. Did you see this?" But then I'd order something else.
I guess you expect exotic, gamey interpretations of dishes out west, but it still seems like bold choice -- for the chef and the diner. I'm glad it was delicious!
Honored to be a part of this excellent post! ☮️ ❤️ 🍷
"made up precision" welcome to the world of wine as well. Best Bordeaux! Top 100! It goes on. It's tiresome.