Mad About Italy

Are the world’s foodies misunderstanding the cuisine of the ‘Bel Paese’? Or is it me?

My distaste for rankings of what amount to unrankable entities goes back to when I was the sports editor of my university newspaper.

The paper decided to launch its own poll of the nation's top college football teams. I organized it and voted in it. But how was I supposed to know how teams that would never play each other would stack up if they did?

It f…