The ITALIAN DISPATCH By Eric J Lyman

The ITALIAN DISPATCH By Eric J Lyman

Ditch the Apps. Find a Dog.

The best local advice may come from the person at the end of a leash

Eric J Lyman's avatar
Eric J Lyman
Jun 30, 2026
∙ Paid
Your guide: Mocha among the ruins in the Ghetto (EJL photo)

Excellent English

When I lived in Rome’s historic center, I’d often get stopped by tourists asking directions while I was out walking Mocha.

“Scusi,” the visitor might say, then, with raised eyebrows, “Colosseo?” They’d look at me nervously.

“Preferisce parlare in inglese?” I’d ask -- “Do you prefer to speak English?”

A look of relief would wash over the other person. “Yes, yes, please.”

“Do you want the fastest way or the most scenic?”

We’d often end up chatting for a minute or two. They might want to know Mocha’s name or how old she was, or they’d ask where they could get a good coffee or an authentic carbonara. I was usually happy to help.

Before we parted, they’d look at me with sincere eyes and pay me what was intended to be a grand compliment. “By the way,” they’d say, “your English is excellent.”

“Grazie,” I’d reply.

Mocha doing field research in Trastevere (EJL photo)

The local language

Savvy travelers already know the standard guidelines for avoiding tourist-trap restaurants.

A sign reading “tourist menu” is a clear give away, for example. Same for photos of food on laminated menus, loitering waiters trying to cajole passers-by in the door, or windows framing a supposed nonna rolling out pasta.

A lesser-known travel strategy I trust more than the advice of almost any influencer or broad online ratings or listicle-style content: filter for reviews in the local language.

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