Ditch the Apps. Find a Dog.

The best local advice may come from the person at the end of a leash

Your guide: Mocha among the ruins in the Ghetto (EJL photo)

Excellent English

When I lived in Rome’s historic center, I’d often get stopped by tourists asking directions while I was out walking Mocha.

“Scusi,” the visitor might say, then, with raised eyebrows, “Colosseo?” They’d look at me nervously.

“Preferisce parlare in inglese?” I’d ask -- “Do you prefer to speak English?”

A look of relief would wash over the other person. “Yes, yes, please.”

“Do you want the fastest way or the most scenic?”

We’d often end up chatting for a minute or two. They might want to know Mocha’s name or how old she was, or they’d ask where they could get a good coffee or an authentic carbonara. I was usually happy to help.

Before we parted, they’d look at me with sincere eyes and pay me what was intended to be a grand compliment. “By the way,” they’d say, “your English is excellent.”

“Grazie,” I’d reply.

Mocha doing field research in Trastevere (EJL photo)

The local language

Savvy travelers already know the standard guidelines for avoiding tourist-trap restaurants.

A sign reading “tourist menu” is a clear give away, for example. Same for photos of food on laminated menus, loitering waiters trying to cajole passers-by in the door, or windows framing a supposed nonna rolling out pasta.

Another strategy I trust more than the advice of almost any influencer, broad online ratings, or listicle-style content: filter for reviews in the local language.

An example: I know a trattoria in Rome that has a so-so score on online ratings sites, dragged down in part by comments about some of the staff’s limited English. But filter for Italian-language reviews and the picture changes: the rating jumps and reviews mostly praise the authentic cooking and generous portions.

The place remains among my favorites -- partly because of the food and partly because that mixed score produces a healthy mix of in-the-know locals and sharp-eyed visitors.

Local dogs comparing notes in San Paolo (EJL photo)

The leash test

My best bang-for-the-buck strategy is much simpler: ask someone walking a dog.

Dog owners are almost always approachable: few owners mind a compliment about their pooch. And someone walking a dog probably lives nearby, taking in the neighborhood one step at a time, several times a day. They know the sidewalks, the coffee bars, the wine shops, the bakeries, the shortcuts, the scenic routes. They know which places have lost a step, and they know the newest places locals are enjoying.

I suppose it doesn’t have to be a dog. I have a friend who walks her cat, Bojan, on a leash. And a few years ago, in Testaccio, there was a pig named Dior, who toured the Rome neighborhood with his owner, much to the delight of local children.

But I am partial to dogs, which are beloved across Italy -- especially in Rome, where they are treated like small, opinionated citizens.

Bojan and Dior on their leashes (M Seriakov/@pig_dior)

📌 And another thing

Having a dog helps a lot in fitting in in a dog-loving country like Italy. I can attest to being far more recognizable around town with Mocha than without her.

ITA Airways has begun making it easier for travelers to bring their pets with them on flights and some European travelers bring their dogs with them when they arrive by car. But it’s still a pretty good bet that someone with a dog is a local -- or at least local enough.

That means that when I’m with Mocha, I get bothered less by peddlers and menu-wavers.

But it can also confuse other residents.

I no longer live in Rome’s historic center and so I don’t get stopped as often by tourists looking for the Colosseum. Instead, I get stopped by Italians looking for more practical information: the closest bancomat, the way to the metro, or maybe the bus to where they’re going. Stopping a dog owner can be helpful no matter who’s asking.

Sometimes Italians seem a little embarrassed. But I’m never sure whether that’s because they asked advice from a foreigner -- or because the foreigner actually knew the answer.

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